Caring For Your New Cat  
  HomePage

  Adoptions AreYouReadyToAdopt. CaringForYourNewCat. CaringForYourNewDog SeniorToSenior LonelyHeartsClub HowToAdoptAPet WhereToMeetOurPets AdoptableCats AdoptableDogs   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some of the basics for bringing home your adopted kitty.

  • Fresh, healthy food: Use a commercial cat food which is scientifically formulated to provide adequate nutrition.

  • Free access to water: Check your cat's water bowl each time you feed him.

  • Litter Box and litter: Be sure to clean it daily.

  • Cat-safe toys:  Try to vary the collection with some the cat can play with while you are out and some that you can use for interactive games.

  • Scratching post or flat cardboard box with scratch material inside.

  • Pet carrier:  Use this to transport your cat every time the cat travels, either by plane, train or automobile. 

  • Bed:  Most cats like the soft beds either flat or rounded with sides. 

 
 
Brush kitty regularly to remove dead skin, dirt, and loose hair. This is especially important during shedding season (spring and early summer) to prevent ingestion of hair balls.

CAT PROOFING YOUR HOUSE, especially for kittens

Cats, especially kittens, are curious and will explore everywhere. Cat-proofing is important.

  • Remove toxic plants: Many plants are poisonous to your cat if ingested. 

  • Store antifreeze in closed containers out of reach of your pet:  It's sweet smell and taste are attractive to your cat, and can be fatal.

  • Put away tablecloths: This will remove the temptation to climb up on tables and break your best china or injure himself.

  • Pack away precious breakables: Your cat may jump on furniture and accidentally knock over fragile items.

  • Unplug dangling electrical cords or tack them down: Your cat may try to chew on cords, so it is best not to risk electric shock.

  • Securely store hazardous materials: Put away products such as insecticides, poisons, medications, and cleaning supplies

  • Close the dryer door: Cats love to explore, especially dark, quiet places. Check inside any large appliance before closing the door.

  • Keep screen doors and windows latched: With a little push on an unlatched door, your cat could slip outside unnoticed.

  • Attach an identification tag and a small bell on your cat's collar

  • Be careful when disposing of kitchen scraps, especially bones: Bones are dangerous, especially soft bones such as fish. Bones can lodge in your cat's throat and cause choking or fatal punctures.

  • Balls of yarn and loose string are unsafe: There is a danger of choking or strangling. Keep these things out of reach when you are not there to monitor play.

  • Never leave a burner turned on unattended on the stove

INTRODUCING YOUR CAT TO THE HOUSE:

Confine your new cat to a bathroom or spare bedroom, with a litter box, food and water bowls, and bedding. He will probably head under a bed or some other hiding space. It might be a few hours (or even a few days) before he feels safe enough to come out. Close off as many rooms as possible. Open them as your cat becomes familiar with the house. Let him explore. If you cat goes where he is not allowed, give him a firm "NO" then remove him to where he is allowed.

INTRODUCING YOUR CAT TO THE FAMILY:

Let your cat initiate the friendship. He may retreat when you enter the room. Sit quietly and wait. When he emerges do not make any sudden movements or try to catch him. Talk softly to him and let him come sniff you when he is ready. Place treats nearby to lure him out. When your cat realizes you will not hurt him, he will eventually come out.

INTRODUCING YOUR CAT TO OTHER PETS:

Some pets will never become friends, but may merely co-exist (some may even be a danger to the other pet). At the very least, it takes time for pets to adjust, especially for the resident pet to allow another animal into its territory. Do not ignore your original pet! He needs to feel loved.

To introduce the cats, keep them separated for a few days, allowing them to smell the other's bedding. Rotate the bedding to help them adjust to the new smell. Let the cats sniff at each other under a door. After awhile, let the cats meet. There may be a lot of hissing. While the first encounter may seem hostile, allow the cats to work it out on their own. It will go faster that way. If the cats start to fight, do not separate them by hand. Spray them with water, and then close the door. Try again a few days later.

When your cat meets your dog, introduce them in much the same manner as with cats. Keep your dog on a leash. Do not allow your dog to chase your cat. Supervise all initial meetings.

INDOOR VS. OUTDOOR:

"Isn't it cruel to keep him inside?"

While there is the romantic vision of the outdoor cat lounging on the porch and hunting in the woods, the real picture is less ideal. Outdoor cats risk injury by cars, eating poison, drinking antifreeze, or fighting with other animals. Other outdoor hazards include abuse from angry neighbors, extreme weather, fleas and other parasites or infections passed on by other cats.

Indoor cats have an average life expectancy of 15 years, but it is not unusual for them to live to 20 years. Outdoor only cats have a life expectancy of only 1 to 3 years!

Indoor life provides all the pleasures of outdoor life without the dangers. Most of a cat's life is spent sleeping, with much of his remaining awake time spent...just watching. Unlike dogs, cats do not run around to explore, but scan their surroundings visually, and employ their sensitive hearing to detect subtle changes.

Cats spend considerable time grooming, stretching, sunbathing, and moving from one lounging place to another. While these acts seem simple, they are integral to a cat's life.

Give your cat a nice window ledge with a view. Leave cat-safe toys and treats, and keep the radio on when you are gone. Your inside cat will be in paradise.

CATS AND THEIR CLAWS:

Scratching is natural to cats. Kittens are curious and inquisitive and use their claws to explore the world around them. All cats scratch to condition their claws and to exercise their paw muscles.

THE SCRATCHING POST:

Have a scratching post available. A carpeted post or a sisal post, etc. can be used. Place some cat-safe toys or special treats and goodies nearby, or rub catnip on the post to lure your cat to the area. He will soon learn that this is his scratching station.

ALTERNATIVES TO DECLAWING:

Declawing is a surgical process by which the end joint of the toe is amputated. Often, people believe that declawing is the only way to address inappropriate scratching. However, it can be a painful procedure for your cat, and it is almost always unnecessary. Many cats exhibit behavior or personality changes after the operation. Some are reluctant to use the litter box. Others become antisocial and distrustful of their owners.

The Tulsa SPCA advises against declawing cats.  It is not humane.

There are several safe and inexpensive ways to keep your cat from injuring you or your furniture with inappropriate scratching. Two of the most popular ways are:

Soft Paws - Soft Paws are vinyl caps that attach with adhesive to fit over a cat's claws. While protecting people and furniture, the caps allow the cat's feet to remain intact. Soft Paws are available through your veterinarian.

Nail Trimming - Decrease the need for your cat to scratch by trimming his nails. You can use ordinary human-nail clippers. By gently applying light pressure to the paw with the thumb and forefinger, you can extend the nail. Do not cut into the pink portion of the nail (the "quick"). This is the blood supply to the nail and is painful to your cat if it is cut.  If you are not experienced with trimming kitty nails, ask your veterinarian for a demonstration.  It’s important to be calm and work patiently.

THE LITTER BOX:

Most cats were taught by their mother as kittens how to use a litter box. Most adult cats need only to learn where the new litter box is located; some need a little more instruction. Confining your cat to a small room initially is the best way to foster good litter box habits. Provide a quiet spot far from high traffic areas for you cat's litter box.

Cats may not use a litter box for a variety of reasons. If your cat will not use the litter box, try:

  • Switching brands of cat litter. A cat has very sensitive paws and a sensitive nose. Consider the texture, quantity and scent of the litter that you buy.

  • Moving the box to a quieter location. Cats are very private creatures.

  • Cleaning the box! Daily cleaning often is needed. Do not use ammonia-based cleaning products as they have a smell similar to urine.

  • Consulting a veterinarian. Inappropriate elimination may be a medical problem.